Sharing one of the highlights of my latest visit to Japan this summer. It was an absolute delight to stay in Naruko at the end of August, when the National Kokeshi Doll Festival (the 69th this year!) was happening. Naruko is an ancient hot spring resort tucked deep in a mountain gorge. And it is also renowned for its Kokeshi doll making - it is obvious from storefronts and road sings to manhole lid, phone box, bridge balusters and post box - you'll see dolls everywhere.
Although pre-loved Kokeshi memorial service (featuring a big bonfire) was sadly cancelled this year due to the strong wind, there were still lots to see and full with activities. Exhibitions, contests, demonstrations, Kokeshi making workshops, dancing, the procession of portable shrines, food stalls, and the auction of dolls. From all over the Tohoku region, so many Kokeshi dolls, young and old, travelled to get together and celebrated this special moment. Each of those seemingly poker-faced dolls actually has its own back story and local identity. They all display the distinctive styles and aesthetics of the people who crafted them. I ended up bidding for 30 dolls at the auction! This is a great place to find the Kokeshi of your heart.
As a bonus for visitors, Sumo wrestling tournament was held at the Naruko shrine during the festival, fought by the senior school boys from the region.
Movie 01 - papier mache Kokeshi dolls in procession.
Movie 02 - Renowned Kokeshi craftman Mr. Onuma, demonstrating foot-powered lathe at the festival.
It would be enough to show how I was excited with and enjoyed this hidden gem. The festival was full with interesting and unique attractions itself, and the best kind of hot spring with a wide choice of accommodation came together.
But the best thing for me is that it is still mostly enjoyed by people from the local community. This makes the whole experience intimate, relaxed and heartfelt. Three generations of local families came out onto the high street to dance, and the small number of visitors naturally became humble while watching. No over-tourism and no stress.... I truly felt I was lucky to be there. Thanks so much @sausermiho and @sakuraikokeshiten for taking me to Naruko.
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